Hawaii Volcanoes National Park

Hawaii is a vacation destination which takes several trips to truly experience all of the islands’ natural beauty.  Our family vacation last summer was my fifth visit to the Aloha State, and my first visit to the island of Hawaii.  We enjoyed lots of sunshine – as well as kayaking, snorkeling, fishing, waterfalls and beautiful scenery.  The highlight of our trip was our day in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

HHVNP is worth at least one day – and one night of your stay on the Big Island.   Our adventure started with a scenic drive around the southern tip of the island and a stop at the Punalu’u Black Sand beach to admire the local Sea Turtles.  Not a good beach for swimming, however. Rough waters, wind and rocks - sent us quickly on our way.

The island is home to 11 of the world’s 13 climate zones – with occasional snow at the higher elevations.  Mauna Loa and Kilauea are both active volcanoes, continuing to shape the geography of the island.  A stop at the Ranger station inside the National Park is always recommended to learn about current conditions and potential volcanic and seismic activity.    We met our guide – Tyler from Akamai Adventures – at the Visitors Center and set out to explore the park. 

Our hike covered the diversity of HVNP, including the Thurston Lava Tubes, views over the Kilauea Caldera and a hike up for a view into a volcanic crater.  Several stops along the way, we learned about the history of the area and the local flora and fauna.  Our guide reminded us to stay on the trail – we could feel the heat radiating from the steam vents – an important reminder that the lava isn’t too far below the surface! 

The lava formations have incredible variety and strange beauty – fields of black lava, lunar-scapes with mushroom formations, and deep fissures in the ground where plant life has taken root.  Viewed from the Jaggar Museum after sunset, the glow of the active lava in the caldera in the distance provided to be the highlight of a day well spent at Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

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North Iceland - a journey worth taking

Northern Iceland.  Sounds cold just saying it.  But a worthwhile addition to your Iceland itinerary.  The region enjoys nearly 24 hours of day light during the summer months, a striking volcanic landscape, and far fewer tourists than the popular south coast.  The town of Mývatn is a convenient home base for several days.

Start your tour along the lake’s eastern coast – hike the lava fields of the Dimmuborgir.  Keep a look out for trolls hiding among the lava formations.  Climb the Hverfell crater and explore the Krafla geothermal zone.  End your day with a hot soak in the Mývatn Nature Baths – equally relaxing and far less crowded than the Blue Lagoon.

Several day trips are worth your time, particularly Whale Watching in the arctic waters off Húsavík and day hiking in Jökulsárjúfur National Park to the red cliffs of Rauðólar and Ásybrgi Canyon – 4-WD car required!  Iceland is famous for waterfalls – Goðafoss, Dettifoss and Selfoss make for striking photography.

Venture into the remote and desolate center of Iceland on a full-day guided tour through the lava fields of Vatnajökull National Park to the caldera of Lake Askja.  Or perhaps a guided tour to the filming locations for “Game of Thrones” is more to your taste?

Once a backpacker’s destination, the region is an easy six-hour drive from Reykjavik on the well-marked Ring Road.  Lodging options range from comfortable guest houses to campgrounds.  You can truly feel like you are alone at the end of the Earth when visiting north Iceland.

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A must-see on the west coast!

 I just returned from a visit to LA and the Getty Museum.

The museum sits on a hilltop on the west side of the city, just off the San Diego Freeway (the I-405).  It offers spectacular views of the Santa Monica Mountains, the Pacific Ocean and Los Angeles.  It incorporates the modern design of architect Richard Meier with beautiful gardens and generous open space.

One of the restaurants

To reach the hilltop area where the museum is located requires a 10-minute tram ride from the garage where you leave your car.  While admission to the museum is free, parking is $15.00 per vehicle. Parking is first come/first served.  Call ahead for alternate parking solutions on busy weekends.

The collection, changing exhibitions and outdoor art covers European and American history - from medieval times to the present.    And, the Getty also has great collections of photographs.  All are housed in 5 gallery pavilions which allow visitors to walk outside from one gallery to the next.  Exterior courtyard spaces include gardens, seating and picnic areas and cafes.  The museum is open some evenings and concerts are often presented in the courtyard areas.  Throughout the day docents are available for tours of both the galleries and the outdoor space.

A plaza within the museum campus.

The two primary dining options are: The Cafe - self-service with more casual fare, and The Restaurant, an elegant setting offering an eclectic menu and full-service dining for both lunch and dinner.  Reservations are strongly recommended.  P.S. - The views are spectacular!

Details about what's happening at the Getty can be found at www.getty.edu/museum (note: the museum is closed on Monday).

If you have any free time built in to your next visit to LA and its environs, I highly recommend a visit to the Getty.

Don't miss it!

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Norway by Sea

This post originally appeared in Ed McCourt's blog, Travel Perspectives.  Reposted with permissions.

 

It had been nearly 4-decades since I’d visited Norway.  Earlier this fall, I returned to this part of Scandinavia, getting to go well beyond Oslo and Bergen. Like other destinations, Norway has changed significantly since the mid ‘70’s.  Nevertheless it continues to enthrall those who seek natural wonder, unique cultural experiences and opportunities to be physically engaged.

The centerpiece of this visit was a 7-day cruise aboard the MS Trollfjord of the Hurtigruten line. Along with 8-other American travel counselors and a line sales manager, we embarked in Bergen and sailed north along the coast crossing the Arctic Circle on the third-day.  After visiting Europe’s northernmost point, Nordkapp/North Cape, we arrived at the Barents Sea port of Kirkenes and just six-miles from the Russian frontier.

                       North bound itinerary from Bergen to Kirkenes

         

 

Needless to say, there was nothing ordinary about this itinerary. Early on we made a passage through the wild Hjørundfjord. The route took us by majestic mountains (the SunnmØre Alps) and eventually, into a peaceful cove in front of the pastoral village of Øye.  Tendered in, we hiked up hills that overlooked the idyllic setting.  Upon return we ate lunch of (surprisingly) delicious goat stew and cow-berries with cream at the historic Hotel Union Øye. At the end of 1800s Europe’s royalty (e.g. Kaiser Wilhelm II) and its upper classes frequented the hotel which has recently been restored to its former grandeur.

                                                                 

MS Trollfjord is anchored to my right in distant background

 

Hotel Union Øye

Exiting the Hjørundfjord, we docked at Ålesund where I joined several other passengers for a climb up the famous 418-steps staircase leading to the summit of Mount Aksla right in the center of the city. From here, we were rewarded with a splendid view of Ålesund and the surrounding mountains and islands.

Ålesund from atop Mt. Aksla

Further up the coast we visited Norway’s third city, Trondheim.  Its major attraction is the Nidaros Cathedral, the largest and northernmost medieval cathedral in Scandinavia.  Its construction began in the 12th century rising up from the burial site of Norway’s patron saint, St., Olav, the Norwegian Viking King.

Trondheim's Nidaros Cathedral on a showery Sunday morning

During the morning that we crossed the Arctic Circle, several passengers were awarded Hurtigruten’s Polarsirkel Sertificat (a.k.a. Certificate of the Arctic Circle).  

In recognition, each candidate was doused with ice water and encouraged to down a glass of aquavit. To insure the authenticity of the rites, King Neptune was on hand.

Neptune was overseeing in the background to my right!

I concluded that aquavit is an acquired taste.

Following the Circle crossing, and, after docking at Bodø, several of   us suited up and boarded a rigid-inflatable boat or RIB (to my left below) for a safari to the near-by Saltstraumen. This stretch of water is a narrow channel connecting two fjords. It’s reported to experiences the strongest tidal current in the world. The special RIB watercraft allowed us to safely enter the maelstroms created by the coming together of the waters of both fjords.

This is a link to a YouTube presentation that captures a RIB voyage through the Saltstraumen. Captions are in English and Russian. I regret the pop-ups and ads, but this was the best video presentation that I could find.

Saltstraumen is also noted for its white-tailed or sea eagle. World-wide, Norway is home to about 20% of this species. In size, the sea eagle is comparable to the bald eagle.  On our RIB safari we saw three or four of these impressive birds. Unfortunately they were perched atop buoys or on crags.  None was in dramatic flight as pictured below.

(courtesy of the Northern Norway Tourist Board)

Late in our sailing we visited Tromsø with its impressive Arctic Cathedral. I accessed the edifice by walking across the Tromsø Bridge, a span of two-thirds of a mile that connects both parts of the city. The walk was invigorating!  On the way back, I stopped at the city’s very unique Polarmuseet (Polar Museum). This compact but cozy museum is filled with exhibits that bring to life Norway’s very prominent role in Arctic exploration.

Tromsø Cathedral (in summer!)

Tromsø Polar Museum (as it appears much of the year!)

The following day, we sailed into Honningsvåg, the closest port to the Nordkapp (North Cape).  The ride to the Nordkapp is along the northernmost road in the European system.  Nordkapp is at 71ᴼ 10’ and 1300-miles from the North Pole (by comparison, Point Barrow AK is at 71ᴼ 23’ and 1122 miles from the Pole).  Nordkapp -- most accessible to tourists between mid-May and late August and at increasingly limited access between late fall and most of spring -- overlooks the Arctic Ocean from a 3000 foot promontory. Its most famous symbol is the Globe Monument (pictured below).  There is an excellent visitors’ center at Nordkapp that provides a great audio-visual presentation, a peace chapel and exhibits.  We visited Nordkapp on September 30, but fierce winds and snow squalls made it feel more like January in Boston!

Nordkapp - Globe Monument

  At Honningsvåg -- Trolls are everywhere in Norway!

 

A bit more about the Hurtigruten experience ...

Of course, the Norwegian Coastal Voyage aboard Hurtigruten’s (14-thousand ton) MS Trollfjord was a major part of this Scandinavian itinerary.  The Trollfjord and her 11-sister ships – continually plying the waters of the Norwegian coast, visiting 32-ports in 12-days (round-trip) – serve a dual purpose.  They provide the locals with postal, small cargo and ferry services along a coast characterized by fjords and mountains on the shoreline (beautiful, but largely inaccessible except by water).  For guests, like us, the itineraries are a visually rich vehicle for immersion into Norway’s landscapes, outdoor activities, food, beverage and cultural heritage.

The range of shore excursions on Norway Coastal voyages varies depending on season. For example, in summer, mountain biking, birding, kayaking, horseback riding and midnight sun activities abound.  In winter, dog sledding, snowmobiling, wilderness camping and, weather permitting, Northern Lights viewing are options.

Hurtigrtuen accommodations are simple, clean and comfortable.  English is spoken on board (as it is just about everywhere else in Scandinavia).  Most of the food is locally provisioned, making for memorable fish and vegetable offerings.  The breads, cheeses and desserts were also super.  There is neither gambling nor organized nightlife on board.

Given the activity level of the typical Hurtigruten guest aboard Norwegian Coastal Itinerary, bed times come early, anyway.

As for Bergen and Oslo ...

Before the Trollfjord voyage, I spent a day in Bergen.  Post cruise, I had 36-hours in Norway’s capital, Oslo. Both are excellent cities for tourists.  Bergen, with its Hansaeatic vestiges is very walkable and picturesque.  Oslo, a pedestrian friendly city, has a great public transportation system and lots of things to do close-in.  

The Bergen highlight for me was a trip out to Troldhaugen, the home (above) of, perhaps, Norway’s most famous composer, Edvard Grieg. Admission here included a lunch concert with Norwegian pianist Torleif Torgersen.

Among the Grieg artifacts

On October 2, 2015 in Oslo, the country’s parliament, the Stortinget, was being opened.  I witnessed the arrival of the nation’s king and queen (Harald V and Sonja).  I was amused to see that they were driven in a 1960’s era Lincoln Continental convertible with its top-down.  I also got some time to visit the National Museum, with its very impressive Edvard Munch gallery.

Harald And Sonja - Norway's King and Queen

Munch room at Oslo's National Gallery

 

Happy trails!

Ed McCourt, CTC

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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New Orleans Jazz & Heritage Festival

In April, I attended the New Orleans Jazzfest for the first time.  I’ve now been to New Orleans in the 70’s, 80’s, 90’s and 2015!  The city feels safer than ever and it’s as much fun now as it was 20 years ago.   There’s a wider range of high quality food and the city residents are just the nicest people you’ll ever want to meet!

I’d never been to the Jazz Fest so I was a little worried about the logistics.  But, we went with friends who’d been before and they gave us good advice.  The most important advice I can impart to you is this:  Bring a portable chair!  There were 11 music venues, and most are out in the open with little or no seating!  April is hot and humid! You’ll need that chair!

Now the good stuff.
The venues are well organized and it’s easy to get around.  You can get a music schedule in advance and attempt to figure out who you want to see and when, but there are many crossovers.  There’s so much amazing music, it’s impossible to see everything! Sometimes we just threw the schedule out and wandered around and stopped to listen on a whim.  We caught the most amazing washboard player, EVER!!! There are a few covered venues; a gospel tent and a blues tent, for instance.  Under those tents are at least 300 seats and they have water misters.  Those tents were wonderful respite from the heat, humidity and sometimes rain…. The gospel music was incredible and the blues tent had one incredibly talented group after another.  The music plays all day with brief breaks between sets.

The bad stuff.
The food is just “fair food” so we tried not to eat much except a snack.  That way we could go out to a great restaurant in the evening!  However, there are a bazillion options for food and drink.  You don’t have to go hungry.  But, again, the food is really ho-hum.  The weather is a factor.  Be prepared for the high temps + humidity as well as the possible rain. 

And, the ugly.
Getting there: You can drive and get caught in the traffic and pay a premium to park.  Or, take a taxi. (Again, there will be traffic.)  Or the trolley!  We opted for the trolley, thinking it would get us there without the street backups.  Getting there was a snap.  Getting back, oh man… not pretty.  We waited in the longest line ever to catch a bus.  I never figured out why we couldn’t get the trolley.  I’m afraid that transportation is just a little problematic.

All things considered, I’m grateful that I had the opportunity to attend Jazzfest and I highly recommend it…

Just remember your portable chair!

While in New Orleans, we did eat at a couple of great restaurants…

Balise for dinner
Located in the Warehouse District, so it’s a walk or taxi from most of the popular tourist hotels.
This is a new(ish) restaurant run by Justin Devillier who made his name at La Petite Grocery and is somewhat reknowned. The restaurant was casual and lively, a bit loud and had friendly, knowledgeable service. They offer a wide variety of dishes including chicken, oysters, fish, meat, vegetarian dishes… all of our dishes were either good or very good, but the best was an appetizer:  Blistered Shishito Peppers.  Unusual (at the time, now I see them everywhere!) and delicious!  The beet salad was great, too.  (I always find that chef’s do their best work with the appetizers.)  There is some outdoor seating when the weather cooperates.   Check them out!  

The Mona Lisa for dinner

A very relaxed Italian restaurant with a fun atmosphere where the food is simple and delicious!  While waiting in line outside, they served wine and while sitting inside you’re encouraged to bring out your inner artist and draw on the paper table covers.  The menu is mostly pizzas and pastas, but really, really well cooked. Reasonable prices and nice service, I’d make this a regular spot if I lived there!    1212 Royal St, New Orleans, LA 70116 (504) 522-6746
 

The Ruby Slipper for breakfast
A local recommended this spot…it’s his family’s official get-together spot.  He couldn’t have been more enthusiastic about this place in the French Quarter.
New Orleans is a breakfast/brunch town, but I’m not a breakfast/brunch gal, but we gave it a try anyways.  I was very happy I did… it’s very casual, it’s got an interesting atmosphere and vibe and there’s a big menu.  We had Bananas Foster Pain Perdu ($11) and the Eggs Cochon ($13).  Both were absolutely delicious and (very) large dishes.  They have great coffee (it’s hard to find bad coffee in NOLA!) The only negative would be the drinks.  We had a Mimosa – I suggest you stick to the coffee.  As I said, this is a very casual spot. The prices, however, are little more than I would have expected, but well worth it. The restaurant has several locations; we ate at the 200 Magazine St. location.

Hi Volt Coffee for breakfast
Located in the Lower Garden District, it’s a little out-of-the-way for the casual tourist walk-by. You’ll have to seek this one out, tho’ it’s not far from the mainstream.
Here you’ll find New Orleans’ 2015 version of breakfast.  They offer vegetarian, vegan and gluten free options.  But, you’re not restricted to those!  The food and coffee was just fantastic.  They offer breakfast + lunch sandwiches, eggs, muffins, salads, and “toasts” (which were terrific!).  Everything is high quality and super fresh!

Whether you go to New Orleans for music or food or culture, it’s a great city to visit.  Go!

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Two D.C. Restaurants to Experience

Not long ago, I visited my niece who recently moved to Washington D.C.  We didn’t have much time but I thought we should check out some restaurants I’d heard about.  Both are in featured in “Top 10” restaurant lists… Washington Post, Zagat, etc. 

The Red Hen
1822 First Street NW DC, 20001 (202) 525-3021 (In the Bloomingdale neighborhood.)

The atmosphere is very nice, upscale – kind of trendy, but still some somewhat casual.  Seating is cramped in the main dining area and it’s a mob scene at the bar.  We didn’t have a reservation, it was a Saturday.  So, we arrived early and were lucky enough to get a seat at the bar.  Within 20 minutes, people were lined up 3 deep, like vultures, waiting to grab our seat the moment we left!  And, it’s a lively (read: a bit loud) room.  Other than those 2 issues, which honestly weren’t overwhelming, everything else was wonderful. 

The bartender’s food service was attentive and informed and patient. The food is a modern take on rustic Italian (is that allowed?)  We shared several appetizers and a main dish.  The Burrata with Asparagus Salad and the Crostini were both lovely.  The (becoming a ‘Signature’ dish) Mezze Rigatoni (rigatoni with fennel sausage) was outstanding.  And, the prices are very good!

Check out their interesting menu on their website.  And, you’ll find plenty of accolades on the Press page to read.

Reservations accepted!  But, good luck getting one….

 

Rose’s Luxury
717 8th St. SE on Capitol Hill, in Washington D.C (202)580-8889

This is another restaurant on a lot of Top 10 lists… including (but, not limited to!) Number 1 on
Bon Appetit’s Hot 10 Restaurants of 2014.

This is a spectacular restaurant.  The food is outstanding!  Inventive, flavorful, eclectic, delicious!
Pricey, too…. Plus, friendly, intelligent service and a casual and personal/fun atmosphere.  All factors add up to a wonderful dining experience.  Once you’re seated, that is…
Rose’s has a no reservations policy.  People start lining up in the afternoon to get a table.  Once you get to the host(ess), they will seat you or take your name and give you a time when you can come back.  They will text your phone, too.  There are several nice bars in the area as well as some shopping… You could wait up to 2 hours in line.  What we did was to go about an hour after they opened and by that time the line had been handled.  We signed up for a late dinner then came back at the appointed time.  We were seated in the small-ish bar area.  Very cozy with plenty of atmosphere.

So.  Once seated our well-informed waiter patiently explained the menu and assisted us in making selections.  We shared several plates. Among them:

GRILLED AVOCADO W/ TOMATILLO, POBLANO, COTIJA CHEESE & CILANTRO STEMS 12

PORK SAUSAGE, HABANERO, PEANUTS & LYCHEE SALAD 13

BUCATINI W/ SUNGOLD TOMATO SAUCE & PARMESAN 13

Everything we ate was delicious.

RL has a nice vibe…   And, for every meal eaten, they donate 25 cents to the WFP-USA charity to feed hungry children world-wide.  At last check, they had donated $18, 964.25.  Read the staff page on their Website – it’s really fun. Chef-owner Aaron Silverman ran a supper club out of his house before opening Rose’s (named after his grandmother.) Decorations around the restaurant are fun and odd.  The bathrooms are stocked with personal items and lovely soaps… In various interviews with the chef, you get the distinct impression that his ultimate goal is to make people happy – both customers and staff.  I think he succeeds.

Frankly, I find the no reservations policies painful and either I don’t go to those restaurants or I go once.  But, Rose’s Luxury is worth the wait.  I would go back in a heartbeat.

Oh, and BTW, the First Lady has been here at least twice – once with POTUS (for his birthday).  They don’t wait in line!

 

 

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Maine and Canadian Maritimes plus Nova Star Cruise - Summer Road Trip - 2015

Coincidentally, my teammate Tom and I both planned driving trips to the Canadian Maritimes one week apart.  So we thought we’d combine our reviews.  Tom went on a 4 night trip to Cape Breton and Halifax and ferried on the Nova Star cruise ship.  I went for 9 nights to Bar Harbor and Portland Maine, New Brunswick, PEI and Nova Scotia - and also did the Nova Star Cruise.  Our trips took place the last week of June and the first two weeks of July. The goal for Tom and his wife was to track down ancestry in Cape Breton, and the goal for me, my sister and 24 year old niece was to eat lobster and have fancy cocktails every day!  We both succeeded in our missions and would recommend similar trips for anyone who loves the waterfront - its vistas, cuisine, water activity and the interesting lives of the friendly people who live there.

Following are the highlights, lodging and restaurants –

Bar Harbor, Maine – Gail went here first and we were sorry we only had one night – it’s a charming and vibrant little waterfront town at the foot of Cadillac Mountain in the Acadia National Park. In addition to great hiking opportunities, there’s an easy mountain road to the main lookout - an area of large, smooth glacial boulders providing plenty of space for people to climb and walk around and take in the views.

  Ivy Manor, a small Tudor style inn right in the heart of town on Main Street. Run by very welcoming John and Christine Poole who purchased it two years ago – this 8-room inn was originally a single family house in the 1940s – it’s very pleasing to stay in a cozy dwelling with unique rooms and Victorian furnishings, and with lively Bar Harbor right outside.  Christine prepares delicious breakfasts (included with room) and the inn has a very nice, highly regarded restaurant. 

          

 

  

Ivy Manor Inn, Bar Harbor, Maine

  Cherrystones – having just arrived from the 4+ hour drive from Boston and checked in, we were desperate for food and drink, so went in to the first place we saw - the corner open-air deck bar of Cherrystones – across the street from our inn.  We were thoroughly and pleasantly surprised with the delicious sautéed clams and with Cosmos made with fresh lime juice.

  Michelle’s Restaurant and Lounge – this is Ivy Manor’s restaurant and bar – at dinner we had lovely outdoor seating on their densely and beautifully gardened stone patio watching the town activity. The food choices were varied and well balanced with tasty local vegetables.  Our server was excellent and handled both the outdoor and indoor tables with ease.

 Shopping - a shopper at heart, Bar Harbor is exactly what I love – the main street of this adorable town is lined with beautiful little shops showing off their particular seaside wares.

 

St Andrews, New Brunswick – good size seaside town with whale watching and a wide range of nice quality local art and crafts.  No whales to be seen though due to the cold winter - late July or August would be a better bet for whale sightings. Gail spent 2 nights here – lots to see, do, eat and purchase! 

 Rossmount Inn - a beautifully maintained 18 room 3-story manor house originating from the 1800’s, about 5 minute’s drive out of town - antique Victorian furnishings mixed with modern paintings and sculpture – also has the best restaurant around, a local favorite - AND they have a very pretty outdoor pool with great views.

 Restaurant at Rossmount Inn – fine dining indeed and in a fine dining room – heavily wood-paneled, rich red-walled with sparkling chandelier - ingredients come from the inn’s kitchen garden and other local sources – creative and delicious food.

 Red Herring Pub – had lunch after a morning whale outing – located at the pier on the main street – sat outside and enjoyed fried clams and French fries and Bloody Ceasars – very pleasant.

 Whale watching – Positioned on/near a number of bays and inlets, St. Andrews attracts many whale varieties - Finback (Fin), Minke, Wright, Humpback and occasionally the beautiful small white Beluga whale.  We went out twice – once with 8 people on a small zodiac (Fundy Tide Runners) and once on a larger boat (Island Quest) holding about 20 passengers and 2 marine biologists. No whales (or puffins) spotted but great stories of a local Minke that breaches incessantly – like 40 times in a row.  And the pilot of the zodiac showed us a remarkable video of an underwater interaction he had with a Beluga whale over several days while he was doing diving work on a salmon farm – the whale came up to other side of the salmon net, touched his snout to the diver’s mask as if a friendly greeting, then came over and appeared to smile at the camera held by a second diver outside the net – if you do a whale watching trip with them (which I do recommend), ask to see the video. 

Shopping – we were lucky to be there on a Wednesday morning when there is a craft market as well as food stalls at the pier.  Our favorite artist, Allana Baird, had a table there – she creates beautiful sculptures – mostly fish – out of tin can lids.  The bright green ones are from a particular kind of cat food can -- local cat owners save them for her.  Some of her larger pieces decorate the Rossmount Inn – including a most attractive avant-garde life-sized mermaid with great tangles of steel hair welcoming you inside the main door.

     

 

 

 

Allana Baird fish sculpture

 

 Minister’s Island – only accessible during low tide when you simply drive right from town about 4 minutes across the seabed floor, this 500-acre island is a perfect outing for a few hours (about 5 hours before the tide returns) – it satisfies both nature seekers and historic house enthusiasts – This was Sir William Van Horne’s private island where he built his summer home, an expansive Shingle style mansion he called Coven Hoven.   American born, Sir William was the second president of the Canadian Pacific Railway – getting the line completed in half the time predicted – 4 years instead of 8. The lavish house furnishings are an interesting mix of original pieces and other similar period pieces as the property went through a few hands since the Van Horne’s and their furniture was auctioned off – but many original pieces were returned after its opening as a historic site. The bathhouse/painting studio and barn are equally interesting. The guided tour fills in the story of Van Horne’s impressive accomplishments.  An indication of Van Horne’s extreme work ethic (he personally thought sleep was a waste of time) is the story of the windows in the barn – he moved them higher when he saw a worker gazing out of one…

Lots of walking trails – some are original carriage trails - water vistas - great bird watching… – this is a must-visit if you go to St. Andrews.

                Mansion and bath house at Coven Hoven – Minister’s Island

 

PEI – Prince Edward Island – the native Mi’kmaq name of this island is ‘Abegweit’ translated as Cradle on the Waves – this small cradle-shaped island between New Brunswick and the northeastern tip of Nova Scotia, is connected to the mainland only by a (very) long bridge and a couple of ferries. Charlottetown, the historic town located on the south coast, its heyday was in the shipbuilding era and had political influence in the formation of the Canadian Confederation. With soil high in iron-oxide, potatoes thrive and are a major export off the island (producing 25% of Canada’s crop) – the stunning red-soiled farm views are most picturesque as you drive along the island to Charlottetown after arriving off the bridge. We were on the island for 3 nights – 2 in Charlottetown, then one on the Brudnell River on the eastern shoreline.  PEI was our lobster pinnacle destination – many lobster restaurants in town and the island is known for all you can eat lobster dinner cookouts.  We quickly became happily satiated and sadly ran out of steam for the lobster cookout.  Didn’t have enough time this trip to explore the island properly - lots of waterfront to cover– an ocean-side cottage for a week sounds appealing.…

 Delta Prince EdwardCharlottetown - Delta is a Canadian chain. The Prince Edward is an 8 story red brick building in the center of town - modern with stylish, pleasant décor - comfortable, functional and large rooms. Well located near the harbor and the town area.

  Walking food tour – got a lot of history but not much food! – Last stop was Dave’s Lobster where we stayed for lunch because we were still hungry...plus the lobster taco we had just sampled was delicious. We also visited the Gahan brewery and pub – very tasty beer.  A knockout on the tour was the Chip Shack  - a small stand next to the Hippo tour bus/boat on the harbor front – The owner, self-declared Queen of Fries, has a marvelous personality and does in fact make the best French fries in the world (at least as far as my world is concerned).

 Pedicab – fun way to tour the town – terrain is flat so our peddler/guide says it’s not that hard to pull a full cab – three of us not small women – once you get over that concern, it’s a great way to get a close up tour by a knowledgeable historian with strong legs!

 Sunset cruise – Peakes Wharf Boat Cruises – pleasant wooden tour boat (adapted lobster fishing boat) with charming young second mate who manned the small bar and pointed out the sights. Holds up to 35 passengers, has a covered deck with wide, open-air windows. Great way to see the harbor. The day cruise hauls in a lobster trap.

 Corner of Water and Prince - this is where to get your lobster (and delicious fried oysters) – a funky little corner restaurant that’s packed by noon – lunch reservations recommended. This restaurant has history, as attested by the walls – covered with photos, license plates and a large reclining mermaid image who looks like Cher. The service is very local and engaged – teaching my niece how to teethe the meat out of the legs.  And this is the place to settle the lobster debate that PEI poses – to eat the steamed lobster hot (traditional New England approach) - or cold (the PEI way) -- both are served with drawn butter.  The restaurant serves it both ways – and both were delicious!

      

 

 

 

Corner of Water and Prince Restaurant

 

 Terre Rouge – our PEI fine dining experience – a bistro on Queen St. – menu includes the likes of roasted bone marrow with parsley caper salad, duck fat toast, and shallot marmalade (sold out of that, to my sister’s disappointment). Sharp décor -- red walls with elegant black chairs -- unassuming and pleasant service – casual ambience - excellent creations from the bar - would definitely repeat.

 Rodd BrudnellEast Coast of PEI -  as a nod to my niece, we went to this golf/river resort to do something physical - horseback riding, kayaking and paddle boarding are available adjacent to the resort. In addition to the main building, it has nice cottages along the river making it a good family spot, especially if you like golf.  The dining room was so-so – better to go to Clamdiggers in Georgetown, for dinner.  The resort location was perfect for positioning for the Wood Islands ferry over to Halifax the next morning - a pleasant 1 hour-ish ride with good cafeteria-style food.

 

Nova Scotia – Tom spent 1 night in New Glasgow, 2 Nights in Halifax and 1 night in Yarmouth. – Gail arrived Halifax by car ferry from PEI – stayed 1 night, then 1 night at Yarmouth.

Cape Breton Island – Tom visited Cape Breton to do some family research and met some distant cousins he never knew about!  Best known for its spectacular drive along the Cabot Trail, Cape Breton is also ideal for hiking, golf and water sports.  

Halifax – what a great city!  The boardwalk that spans the full length of the harbor is very lively - an array of Clipper style ships and other harbor tour boats along with a couple of massive personal yachts add to the harbor view - plenty of food venues – we caught the last day of the outdoor Jazz Festival.  If you happen to be in Halifax during the first week of July, the Royal Nova Scotia International Tattoo is a must see event!

  Hollis Radisson – (Gail stayed here) beautiful room with a harbor view through the bedroom window and from the floor to ceiling window in the shower!  - comes with venation blinds… Our junior suite felt like an apartment with a kitchenette and pull-out sofa bed in separate area – very sleek with chrome appliances. Located in Downtown Halifax, just a few blocks from the harbor.

  Four Points by Sheraton – (Tom stayed here) Located on Hollis Street, this is a newly renovated hotel, extremely clean with free Wi-Fi and just 2 blocks from the waterfront.

 Durty Nellies and The Old Triangle are Irish Pubs in Halifax with excellent food, live entertainment and friendly, helpful staff.

The Gahan House – on the north end of the boardwalk – ate outdoors on their large boardwalk size deck – enjoyed great beer samplers with our mussels, nachos, fish cakes and more – and enjoyed the harbor view. This is a spin-off of the Gahan brewery based in Charlottetown, PEI – it was a pleasant stop on our food tour there and where we got the tip to eat at their new restaurant here in Halifax.

Peggy’s Cove – 

 a picturesque little fishing village about a 45 minute drive Southwest of Halifax. There are lots of great photo opportunities and the lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove is the most famous and most photographed lighthouse in Nova Scotia.  Beautiful striated glacial rocks cover a large expanse.

      

 

Lighthouse at Peggy’s Cove – shot by Tom

 

Lunenburg – this is the classic seaside village you see in the brochures – with sailboats in the harbor, a hillside town sloping down to the water with colorful houses and waterfront buildings –the town is about an hour south of Halifax, enroute to Yarmouth, the jumping off point for the Nova Star cruise to Portland, Maine.  So it makes the perfect lunch stop on your way.  No need to rush to Yarmouth.

        

 

 

 

Lunenburg, Nova Scotia

  Old Fish Factory – housed in the dramatic red building on the water, shared with a small maritime museum which provides a charming entrance (to view museum pieces, you need a ticket, so don’t just stroll in to the exhibit area)  - the restaurant has a large outdoor deck  along the water.  Delicious seafood cuisine in a relaxing picture-perfect setting.

 

Yarmouth – it’s necessary to stay here overnight in order to be at the ferry dock around 7amish. This city has a fishing history – not much for tourists here. 

  Gail stayed at the Rodd Grand Yarmouth – not a great choice – a general run-down feeling.  I see there is a Westin in Yarmouth …

  Tom stayed at Comfort Inn – typical Comfort Inn style, clean and friendly staff.  This hotel only has two stories but no elevators so ask for first floor room if you have trouble with stairs.

 A side trip to see the Cape Forchu Lighthouse was worth the 20-minute drive from the hotel. The vertical red stripe is distinctive.  If you’re lucky (i.e. not fogged in like Gail was), you’ll see the lighthouse when departing or arriving on the Nova Star Cruise ship – request starboard side cabin departing Yarmouth and port side if arriving.

        

 

 

Cape Forchu Lighthouse – photo by Tom

  Nova Star Cruise – A highlight of both of our trips was the Nova Star cruise.  It’s a cruise ship/ferry that travels between Nova Scotia and Maine (Yarmouth and Portland).  We both took the 10 hour day crossing from Yarmouth to Portland – they serve a buffet style lunch.  The other direction does an overnight cruise with a fine dining dinner restaurant (sometimes open on lunch cruise in high season).    This is a great way to take some driving out of the road trip  - and enjoy some fun, food and relaxation along the way – like any cruise, there is plenty of social opportunity with fellow guests.  This is not the old Prince of Fundy or fast cat ferry that have gone before – Nova Star is in its second year and we give it kudos for being a great product – excellent and solicitous service - very clean, well maintained, attractive ship -- well run operation  --  and food and drinks were top notch –  best beverage-of- the-tour award goes here - a specialty Mojito –

Checking in at the dock was fairly easy; they were well organized checking our documents and directing us to one of several marked lanes to await driving on board.  They started loading the vehicles about 45 minutes prior to departure and this went very smoothly.

        

 

Nova Star – photo by Tom         

 

Cabins on the cruise are optional and we did reserve one. The cabins are relatively small but it was good to have a private space to lock up our carry-on bag and have a place to lie down for a nap.  There is also a shower in each cabin. There were many activities on board - a casino, 2 movies, a checkers tournament, bingo, wine tasting, musical performers and several bars – between the two of us we did almost all of them – and Gail hit the gift shop hard – am a sucker for linen dishtowels (they had organic cotton ones!) and SeaBags of Maine sailcloth pouches…  The food at the lunch buffet was good and tasty but they could have offered a wider selection of foods.  Some of the bars also offer prepackaged sandwiches for a quick bite if you want something light.

  Recommend the Green Tea Mojito – made by bartender, Dimiter, with a flair (tossing ice cubes over his head and catching them in the shaker behind his back) – perfect Mojito.

 

Portland, Maine – a bustling city, upscale trendy shops in beautiful old red brick architecture, adjacent to thriving commercial fish piers, and historic buildings -- birthplace of Longfellow.  They know how to do food here – and drinks.  Fantastic walking city.

  Holiday Inn By the Bay – very friendly staff and quite nice accommodations – bright, pleasant rooms with harbor views – walkable to downtown and shuttle van available as needed.

  Hugo’s – This is a most unusual restaurant. A tasting restaurant where the courses are a selection of small samples of interesting and delicious food combinations – Maine Halibut cooked with oyster emulsion, smoked pork and pickled corn. The service and atmosphere are impeccable with everyone knowing exactly what’s in every dish.  And for after-dinner drinks, when we ordered a mundane Monte Cristo (definitely not on the menu) the bar tender rose to the occasion (quite literally as she had to climb a library-style ladder to get to the top shelf for the infrequently used Kahlua and Grand Mariner) – then she whipped up a perfect one…hand whipping real crème of course.  This is an eating adventure.

  Walking Food Tour -- no problem getting enough food on this morning tour through numerous parts of Portland – good workout too – 10 stops!  Started at a spice shop where they served us mead (yes,the medieval beverage) and mac and cheese with special spice, then a fish market on the harbor, and the landmark pub next door where the owner shared photos of his staff’s great lobster catches over the years – from man-size lobsters to bright blue and multi-colored ones.  Next stop a great specialty food shop with delicious cheese sampling (and time to buy some).   At a local brewery, we were lucky to have a back room tour by the owner before a beer tasting.  Another stop served upscale vegetarian fare and organic meat – then we topped things off at a chocolate shop.  Definitely recommend.

 

In hindsight, what would we have done differently or do again next time?  Gail would have slowed down the pace with more 2-night and fewer 1-night stays.  Reverse the order and start at Portland in order to do the overnight Nova Star cruise – then on arrival Yarmouth, continue to Lunenburg for lunch before going to Halifax to settle in for a couple of nights.  On the return trip, take 2 nights at Lunenburg and end with 2 nights at Bar Harbor.  Tom is a super Halifax fan so he’d repeat that for sure, and take the reverse cruise and stop at Lunenburg as well -- And maybe drive the dramatic sheer cliff roads of Cape Breton!

Gail Strand and Tom Young

Feel free to contact us if you have any questions or want more information - or want to plan a tour following in our footsteps – or in this case, tire tracks..

 

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POINT YOURSELF TO POINT LOBOS, CALIFORNIA

Point Lobos – The Crown Jewel of the California State Park System

…….3 Miles south of Carmel on Highway 1

Take a tour!

Have you ever visited a new place and after you left, you just had to go back?
You were in fact compelled to go back?  And when you did, you were enveloped in a sense of calm and peacefulness?  The rain forest in the Osa Peninsula in Costa Rica,
Machu Picchu in the Peruvian Andes and Point Lobos State Natural Reserve are in
this category for me.

Point Lobos is a place of scenic views of the Pacific, crashing waves, varied animal and plant life on 400 acres and 750 underwater acres.  Preserved as a state park to protect the grove of Monterey cypress trees (one of only two in the world), it has been called ‘the greatest meeting of land and sea in the world’ by the landscape artist Francis McCombis.

The trails are easy walking for all ages and offer something beautiful at every turn:
sea otters resting in kelp, often with babies on their chests, harbor seals with their soulful eyes, sea lions roaring to each other.  You may hear cracking noises as you walk along – the sea otter has dived for a mussel and is cracking it open on its chest with a rock.  Gray whales migrate by from December through April.  Monarch butterflies winter over in this area as well.  Meadows of wildflowers in the Spring – Point Lobos is truly a nature preserve.

The park opens at 8AM – $10 per car.  Be there close to opening time for the best parking and fewer visitors. 

Spend at least another day and take the time to continue down Highway 1 to Big Sur for 16 more stunning miles of the Pacific.   And don’t forget Carmel and San Francisco….
just plan on a longer trip to California!

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Unplugging on Vacation

This is very much a case of “Do as I say, not as I do.”

Everyone gets nervous about leaving the workplace for an extended period of  time. Worries about what emergencies might arise while traveling, project things left undone, calls not made, lights left on, invariably cause the stress level to increase just before departing on vacation.  This past winter has been especially hard on New Englanders, compounding the need to get away, as well as the anxiety that the trip is meant to shake off. 

Our bodies and emotions do not operate on the press of a button.  Although we understand, intellectually, that we are on a holiday, this does not mean that fact registers emotionally .  Sometimes it can take a day, or two, into the trip before one can actually begin to unwind.  These days, as technology allows us to be reached anywhere in the world, the temptation, or in some cases, a perceived need to monitor daily life back home, can often extend that process, or in some cases prevent it from happening at all, leaving the unfortunate working traveler as, or more, stressed than on departure.

So how do we force ourselves to reboot, and enjoy the relaxation we so desperately need, and have paid for?  This is not an easy answer.

Even while sipping drinks at the beach bar of a lovely all inclusive resort, our mind can still spin.

I often suggest, rather than starting with a tropical cocktail, arrange an adventure, or some sort of learning experience instead. Try something out of your comfort zone that one would not normally do at home.  This not only gives you a great story to tell later, but when the mind is forced to learn something,  it has no time to focus on everyday problems.  There is no better way to reconnect with loved ones than learning something new.  Zip lining, surfing lessons, skydiving, cooking classes, tango lessons, horseback riding, skiing, an historic tour, swimming with whale sharks, are among the many things that will increase your heart rate in a healthy way, and will bring you home somewhat changed.  New experiences, learning, and adventure, are all on some level what every traveler is looking for.

Another way is to find a resort that forces one to disconnect.  Many luxury resorts, especially British ones, have refused to put televisions in the rooms.  For instance Nisbet Plantation in Nevis and Curtain Bluff, Antigua.

Horned Dorset Primavera, Puerto Rico, encourages their guests to watch the scenery rather than CNN by removing the big screens from the equation.

Others, such as  romantic Jade Mountain, St Lucia, ask guests not to use cell phones in public areas, and to keep them on vibrate while on property.

Still more, simply because of their remote locations,  will only offer connections at reception or in the lobby.  Examples of these, such as Young Island,

Lapa Rios, Costa Rica, Petit St Vincent, Explora Lodges, Chile, or something like a Galapagos Cruise, can help force even the most resolute workaholic off the grid.

But we can be like addicts when it comes to our work, or connectivity, and we seek it out even when it’s difficult.  Ultimately it’s down to us to remember why we have travelled and leave ourselves open to new experiences and the ever elusive peace we are looking for.  Once again, do as I say, not as I do.

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Gettysburg, PA– History and Hauntings

On a recent road trip, my wife and I spent a few days in Gettysburg, PA.  As you may know, the Battle of Gettysburg, fought July 1-3, 1863, was the longest and bloodiest battle of the Civil War.  We explored the town and made a visit to the Gettysburg National Military Park Museum and Visitor Center (www.nps.gov/gett/index.htm) before beginning our auto tour of the battlefield.  The visitor center has a large display of Civil War artifacts, including guns, ammunition, flags and uniforms. But, the highlight of the center is the Cyclorama - a 360-degree painting of the timeline of the Battle of Gettysburg, and is not to be missed!

Below is the battlefield showing where Pickett's Charge took place with Big Round Top and Little Round Top in the distance.



Once you begin the auto tour of the battlefield (a Guidebook and CD can be purchased at the visitor center), you will start to see the unbelievable scope of the conflict.  You will pass by literally thousands of monuments dedicated to every military division of every state, North and South, who were involved in the battle.  In addition to these monuments, several states erected massive monuments dedicated to all of the men and women of that state who were involved.

Virginia State monument with Robert E. Lee on Traveller.



It is truly a moving experience to hear the sounds of the battle and stories of the participants as the auto tour guides you through the area.  Plan to spend several hours touring the battlefield, taking time to stop and explore the different areas.

(As a side note, I would suggest watching the movie “Gettysburg” starring Jeff Daniels and Martin Sheen before your visit.  It is a very entertaining film and will give you a better understanding of the scope of the events and familiarize you with different aspects of the battle.)

Once the sun goes down, Gettysburg can get very interesting!  Gettysburg is considered one of the most haunted places in the United States.  Joining one of the several Ghost Walks offered around downtown Gettysburg will be a highlight of your visit.  They are full of history and interesting facts.  Be sure to bring your camera too!  As your tour guide points out some of the haunted buildings in town, taking pictures using your flash, can yield you some unseen extras in your photographs!

If you are lucky, you may have captured an orb or two in a few of your pictures.  Orbs usually appear as transparent or solid circles on the photograph and in the paranormal community are widely believed to be spirits or ghosts!

For the really brave, a drive through the battlefields at night is part of the fun.  Again, bring your camera and take random pictures of the battlefield and it is likely more orbs will show up on your pictures.  The best places to take these photographs are the darkest areas with the least amount of other people around.

I hope that some of you will be inspired enough to consider a visit to Gettysburg, and will enjoy it as much as we did

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